ESTERS IN FORMULATION: THE ART OF CASCADING EMOLLIENTS

Cascading Emollient Esters

What Are Cosmetic Esters?

Esters are lightweight, lab-created emollients formed when an acid reacts with an alcohol. In skincare, they’re used to mimic natural skin lipids, improve sensory feel, and enhance spreadability. Unlike heavy oils, esters are engineered to provide targeted benefits—fast absorption, dry touch, or silky glide—making them indispensable in modern formulations.

Common examples include:

• C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate – dry, silky, oil-reducing

• Isoamyl Laurate – fast-absorbing, natural alternative to silicones

• Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) – rich slip, enhances penetration

• Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – natural silicone-like ester with softness

• Octyldodecanol – richer, cushioning feel

My Top 5 Esters

What Does “Cascading Esters” Mean?

Cascading is the strategic layering of esters with varying weights and absorption rates to create a sensorial “journey” when the product is applied. Instead of a flat, one-note texture, cascading delivers multiple stages:

1. Initial Glide (Fast Esters): Ultra-light esters give quick slip, so the product spreads easily.

2. Mid-Weight Balance: Medium esters provide a soft, velvety cushion without greasiness.

3. Lasting Finish (Heavier Esters): Richer esters anchor the formula, leaving a protective, nourishing after-feel.

This approach allows formulators to replace or reduce silicones while still achieving that luxury feel consumers love.

Ester Cascade

Why Cascade Esters?

• Enhanced Sensory Play: Each ester has a different evaporation/absorption rate, building texture complexity.

• Targeted Performance: Light esters help with absorption of actives, while heavier ones lock in moisture.

• Customization: You can design products that feel dry-to-the-touch, satiny, or rich, simply by adjusting the ester cascade.

• Formulation Stability: Esters are generally stable, non-yellowing, and compatible with oils, butters, and waxes.

Why Cascade Esters

Example: Cascading in a Lotion

• Phase B (oil blend):

  • C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (2.5%) – quick-absorbing, dry start

  • Isoamyl Laurate (2%) – smooth silicone alternative

  • Octyldodecanol (1.5%) – lasting cushion, silky finish

Result: A lotion that spreads effortlessly, absorbs quickly, and leaves a soft, non-greasy after-feel.

Sample Lotion Formula (for balanced/all skin types):

Phase A (Water)

• Distilled Water — 78.5%

• Glycerin — 3%

• Disodium EDTA — 0.2%

• Allantoin — 0.5%

• Panthenol — 1%

Phase B (Oil/Esters)

• C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate — 2.5%

• Isoamyl Laurate — 2%

• Octyldodecanol — 1.5%

• Cetearyl Alcohol — 2.5%

• Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate (Lotion Pro 165) — 3%

• Jojoba Oil - 2%

• Meadowfoam Seed Oil - 1%

• Rice Bran Oil - 1%

Phase C (Cool-down)

• Euxyl PE 9010 — 1%

• Fragrance (optional) — 0.3%

Total: 100% 

Tips for Formulators

• Pair esters with natural oils for a balanced sensorial profile.

• Keep total ester load between 5–15% in most emulsions. I try to aim for 6%.

• Test different combinations—your “cascade” depends on your desired skin feel.

  

  Tips for formulators

Final Thoughts

Cascading esters is more than a technical choice—it’s a design philosophy for formulators who want to create memorable products. By blending light, medium, and heavy esters, you guide your customer through a tactile story: a lotion that glides, cushions, and finally comforts. Whether you’re building a minimalist skinimalist formula or a luxury cream, ester cascades give you the flexibility to tailor textures to your brand’s identity.

When done thoughtfully, cascading turns an ordinary emulsion into an extraordinary sensory experience.

Information on oils vs emollient esters can be found here: https://www.soapchefblog.com/post/oils-vs-emollient-esters-penetration-enhancers-which-ones-are-best-for-skincare-formulation-and

~Lissa~