Oils vs. Emollient Esters & Penetration Enhancers — Which Ones Are Best for Skincare Formulation and Why

In the world of cosmetic formulation, few topics spark as much debate—and confusion—as the choice between natural oils, emollient esters, and penetration enhancers. Each plays a unique role in the feel, function, and performance of a skincare product. Let’s break it down clearly and practically.

🌿 Natural Oils: Nourishing but Heavy

Natural oils like jojoba, argan, rosehip, and squalane are loved for their skin affinity and nutrient-rich profiles. They offer:

• Occlusive properties that lock in moisture

• Essential fatty acids that support skin barrier repair

• A natural, eco-friendly appeal

However, they tend to be heavier, slower to absorb, and can sometimes clog pores in oily or acne-prone skin types. They also pose stability challenges in emulsions and have natural odor or oxidation issues.

Avocado Oil - Heavy

✨ Emollient Esters: Lightweight, Elegant, and Versatile

Esters such as isopropyl myristate, coco-caprylate, ethylhexyl palmitate, and diheptyl succinate provide that silky, fast-absorbing skin feel formulators crave.

Benefits include:

• Improved spreadability without greasy residue

• Enhanced sensorial texture and slip

• Greater formulation stability and compatibility

• Customizable polarity to tailor penetration rates

Esters are often biodegradable and sustainably sourced, and some mimic the sensory feel of silicone alternatives—perfect for clean beauty formulations.

Lightweight Emollient Ester

🚀 Penetration Enhancers: Delivering Actives Deep into the Skin

Penetration enhancers like propylene glycol, glyceryl caprylate, oleic acid, and dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) are designed to boost transdermal delivery of actives such as niacinamide, vitamin C, and retinol.

They work by:

• Disrupting the lipid barrier briefly to improve absorption

• Solubilizing active ingredients for better skin delivery

• Allowing for lower concentrations of potent actives with better results

Penetration Enhancer

However, some penetration enhancers may increase irritation potential, especially in compromised skin barriers, so formulator discretion and testing are key.

Irritated Skin

🧪 So... Which Is Best?

It depends entirely on your formulation goals:

Formulation Goal	Best Choice
Deep nourishment & barrier support	Natural oils (e.g., rosehip, marula)
Lightweight, non-greasy sensorials	Esters (e.g., coco-caprylate)
Fast absorption & smooth afterfeel	Esters + low-viscosity oils
Boosting active delivery	Penetration enhancers (e.g., DMI)
Sensitive skin formulas	Low-irritancy esters + mild oils

💡 Pro Tip: Blend for Balance

One of the best techniques is blending oils with esters and mild penetration enhancers to achieve optimal skin feel, absorption, and efficacy.

For example, pairing squalane + c13-15 alkane + glyceryl caprylate results in a lightweight, hydrating, and delivery-boosting system ideal for modern serums and moisturizers.

🔍 Final Thoughts

Choosing between oils, esters, and penetration enhancers doesn’t have to be an either/or decision. In professional skincare formulation, the magic lies in understanding their chemistry and how they synergize.

Whether you’re crafting a body oil, facial serum, or active treatment, selecting the right emollient system will determine how your product feels, performs, and delivers results.

Need help designing a blend for your next formulation? Let’s connect on Patreon

~Lissa~