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Beyond the Ingredient List: What Makes a Well-Designed Moisturizer?
When you look at a moisturizer formula, what catches your attention first? The shea butter? The silky emollients? The ceramides? Those ingredients may have good reasons for being there. But when I look at a formula, I want to know more than what it contains. Why were those ingredients chosen, how are they being used, and what can I reasonably expect from the finished product? That’s where I want to take October’s discussion of emollients, occlusives and barrier lipids. Once y
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How to Create a Cosmetic Formula From Scratch
Creating a cosmetic formula from scratch can feel overwhelming when you are first learning. You may own dozens of interesting oils, extracts, vitamins, peptides, emulsifiers, and preservatives—but having ingredients is not the same thing as having a formula. A properly designed formula begins with a plan. Before deciding whether to add niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, green tea extract, or your favorite oil, you need to determine: What product you are making Who will use it What
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Azelaic Acid: What It Does, Why It Is So Difficult to Formulate, and What the Viral pH Controversy Actually Tells Us
Azelaic acid has become one of the most talked-about skincare ingredients of 2026—but not only because people are interested in what it may do for blemishes, redness and uneven-looking skin tone. Right now, the real conversation is about the chemistry. Two popular products—Anua’s Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum and Medicube’s Azelaic Acid 16 Calming Serum—have landed in the middle of a viral debate about pH, neutralization and whether azelaic acid still works
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